Exploring GB

St Mary's Church in Kempley, Gloucester features the oldest timber roof of any building in England.

Built around 1130, this small church also has some of the most complete set of Romanesque paintings in Northern Europe.

This wonderful hidden gem, in the Gloucester countryside, is an extraordinary survival from the Norman world.

According to English Heritage, the church of St Mary was probably built by Baron Hugh de Lacy, owner of Kempley manor.

Its exterior is unassuming, but inside, this simple Norman building is adorned with the most outstandingly complete and well-preserved medieval wall paintings in the country.

Those in the chancel, dating from the early 12th century, are particularly rare, and are the most complete set of Romanesque paintings in northern Europe.

They are a vivid reminder of a time when church interiors were covered in such decoration.

The remarkable door west door into the church (pictured below) is one of the earliest doors still in use in England.

Tree-ring dating has revealed that St Mary’s still has its original Norman roof and doors, pictured below.

It was originally an external door, but the building of the tower in the 13th century has helped to protect it from the elements.

The timber used for it was felled between 1114 and 1141, and all the planks were cut from a single tree.

St Mary’s also has some exceptionally ancient timbers, including the oldest timber roof of any building in England.

St Mary’s probably replaced an earlier Saxon church on this site, and retains a simple ‘Saxon’ layout, with a rectangular chancel and an aisleless nave.

The tower, blocking the church’s west entrance, was added in about 1276 during Edward I’s wars in Wales.

The timber-framed porch dates to the 14th century.

The glory of Kempley church is the wealth of superb wall paintings, which make it one of the most enjoyable Norman churches to visit in the country.

English Heritage have recognised the value of preserving the wall paintings of St Mary church and have taken over the conservation and management of the church.

Restoring these precious wall paintings is like drawing back the curtain on the lives of those who shaped who we are.

But sadly, dozens of these irreplaceable treasures have deteriorated so much that they could disappear forever.

English Heritage are asking for donations to help preserve them, visit their website for more details.

Medieval church paintings were used to educate and inspire a congregation who may not have understood the Latin church services.

They taught a Christian understanding of the world, offered moral guidance, and aroused the emotions.

The artists at St Mary’s used the nave – the main body of the church – to depict more earthly subjects, while the chancel (the east end, where the altar stood) was conceived as Heaven, and shows a vision of Christ at the Apocalypse.

The first artists at St Mary’s were working in the newly built church, around 1130.

They painted onto fresh lime plaster (fresco technique) and added other details when the plaster was dry (secco technique).

They also painted directly onto the stonework.

Other painting schemes were added in the late 14th and 15th centuries.

Later, with the hostility to religious art during the Reformation, the paintings were hidden behind whitewash - they were only rediscovered in 1872.

Writing on TripAdvisor, one recent visitor said: “This is a beautiful place - the paintings which adorn walls and ceilings, the architecture and woodwork in the doors all have a raw beauty that I find as striking as later perpendicular style.

”All alone out in the green country lanes, St Mary’s is a place of peace and permanence.”

Another person added: “Beautiful little church with very impressive wall paintings. The paintings are well preserved and outstanding and the church is peaceful.

”It is free to enter, the church is not easy to find but worth the effort. There are helpful cards available in the church explaining the paintings.”

The small village has two notable Anglican churches, the other, St Edward’s Church, is Grade II* listed.

The church, dedicated to Edward the Confessor, was built (1903–4) as a chapel of ease by the Lord of the Manor and major landowner, because St Mary's was too far away from the main centres of population in the parish.

The newer church was built to the design of Randall Wells.

If you’d like to see these painting in person, the address is: Kempley, Gloucestershire, England.

It can be found a mile from Kempley village on a minor road north towards Much Marcle.

Please note, the Church is open daily from 10am-6pm March to October and from 10am-4pm November to February.

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