Wistman's Wood, Dartmoor: Devon’s Ancient Frost

The magnificent Wistman's Wood on Dartmoor in Devon, is one of the last ancient temperate rainforests in Britain.

The ancient woodland, that will make you feel like you are in a fairytale, is also said to be haunted.

Oaks have been growing here for more than 7,000 years with little or no human interaction, due to its remote and rugged location.

The challenging terrain, characterised by steep, rocky slopes and thick undergrowth, made it difficult for agriculture, logging, or settlement to take place.

Additionally, Dartmoor's high altitude and harsh weather conditions likely discouraged human habitation and exploitation of the woodland, allowing the ancient oaks to thrive undisturbed for thousands of years.

This isolation helped preserve Wistman's Wood as one of Britain's few remaining ancient forests.

The wood is divided into three main sections, North, Middle, and South Groves or Woods, covering a total area of approximately 3.5 hectares.

These areas are situated on a sheltered, south-west facing slope of the valley, where large granite boulders, known as "clatter," are exposed, and pockets of acidic, free-draining brown earth soils have formed.

Additional patches of scrub extend beyond the primary forest area, indicating that the wood originally covered the entire clatter deposits on the hillside.

Today, the clatter outside the main wood is overgrown with bracken, bilberry, and occasional gorse.

Wistman's Wood is owned by the Duchy of Cornwall and has been managed under a nature reserve agreement with the Nature Conservancy Council, English Nature, and Natural England since 1961.

Wistman's Wood has been documented for centuries and is believed to be a remnant of the ancient forest that once covered much of Dartmoor around 7000 BCE, prior to its clearance by Mesolithic hunter-gatherers around 5000 BCE.

Historical records and photographs indicate that the wood has undergone significant changes since the mid 19th century, coinciding with a general warming of the climate.

During this period, the older oak trees, which once grew in a stunted, semi-prostrate form, have evolved into more upright specimens.

A new generation of oaks, predominantly straight and single-stemmed, has emerged.

The oldest oaks are estimated to be 400–500 years old and likely originated from a diminishing oakwood that survived as scrubland during two centuries of colder climate.

Around 1620, these ancient trees were described as "no taller than a man may touch to top with his head."

Additionally, a new wave of marginal oaks emerged after 1900, effectively doubling the size of the wood.

Evidence of these changes is partly documented in a permanent vegetation plot at the southern end of South Wood, which is the oldest known of its kind in British woodland, with some initial records made by R. Hansford Worth in 1921.

Is it haunted?

Wistman's Wood is often associated with local legends and folklore that suggest it might be haunted.

The dense, misty forest and its ancient, twisted oaks create an eerie atmosphere that has inspired tales of ghosts and other supernatural occurrences.

According to some stories, the wood is said to be haunted by spirits or faeries, adding to its mystical allure.

While these claims are part of the local lore and folklore rather than verified accounts, they contribute to the wood's reputation as a place of mystery and enchantment.

Last year (2023), William, Prince of Wales, in his role as Duke of Cornwall, launched a collaborative initiative with Natural England to protect, restore, and double the size of Wistman's Wood by 2040.

The project, which commenced in October 2023, involves collecting acorns from the ancient trees to grow new saplings, while reducing animal grazing and human foot traffic to promote careful regeneration.

A small car park for visitors is located across from the Two Bridges Hotel. Spaces are limited, so it's best to avoid parking here during peak times.

Ensure that access is always clear, and avoid parking across gateways or along the road.

The footpath to Wistman's Wood from the car park is approximately 4 km round trip, so plan for about an hour for the return journey.

Start by following the broad track to the right of Crockern Farmhouse, which offers a good view of Wistman's Wood in the West Dart Valley.

The path then narrows and becomes rough, muddy, and wet as it passes through a gateway and continues to the wood.

Be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions on the moor.

Writing on TripAdvisor, someone who recently visited said: “Stunning ancient woodland that will make you feel like you are in a fairytale.

”A must-visit place. A lovely and easy walk from a small car park opposite the Two Bridges Hotel.

”The woodland is hidden in the fields, you cannot see it from the main road. It roughly takes 1 hour to reach it from the car park. We visited in autumn on a rainy day, and still, it was magical.”

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